Hair Masks: What Are They All About?

Michael Brunina

Think of hair treatment masks as a kind of high-powered hair conditioner. They have similar benefits—like deeply nourishing and strengthening hair—but are more intense and powerful. Hair masks can also target specific hair concerns. Want to find out what hair conditioning masks are all about and how to use them? Incorporate them into your hair care routine and you may find that the results (think softer, stronger and shinier looking hair) are worth the extra time.

Deep Conditioning Hair Mask | Sephora

Hair masks are treatments that are formulated with oils, butters and other nourishing ingredients. These hydrating hair masks spend more time sinking into and nurturing hair than your average shampoo or conditioner, giving dramatic benefits in a single use.

We put our hair through a lot of stress, whether it’s from heat styling, new hairstyles or exposure to the elements. That can cause serious hair damage. Hair treatment masks can help reduce hair breakage and make your hair feel healthy—all in the comfort of your own home.

How Often Should You Use a Hair Mask?

How often you should do a hair mask will certainly depend on your hair type and how often you wash your hair, but a general rule of thumb can be a minimum of once a week. I typically wash my hair 2-3 times a week, so I typically do a hair mask once a week. I might do two if I’m doing something on my ends and something on my scalp.

You know your hair best, if it’s dry or damaged, you can probably do a hair mask a few times a week. If your hair is really fine, you might want to keep it to once a week so you don’t weigh your hair down. Make sure to follow the instructions to get optimum results. Most hair masks require that they sit on the hair longer than a conditioner, and need to be applied differently depending on what kind of treatment it is. If you have thick but fine hair, only apply hair masks on the bottom hair shaft to the ends (unless it’s a mask specifically for scalp).

Another good rule of thumb I learned from my hair stylist is for optimum hair health, apply shampoo only to the roots of your hair. As you wash it out it will rinse through to your ends, but overdoing it with shampoo can further dry out your hair. Don’t use water that’s too hot either. It’s not good for your scalp or hair (or your skin either).

How to Use a Hair Mask

Hair masks are easy to work into your hair care routine, since they usually take the place of your conditioner. Here’s how to use a hair mask:

Step 1: Shampoo your hair, then rinse.
Step 2: Apply your hair mask.
Step 3: Wait three to five minutes. (Pro tip: Use your extra time in the shower to wash your face, shave your legs or use a body scrub.)
Step 4: Rinse.
Step 5: Towel dry and style your refreshed hair as you normally would.

How Long Should You Leave a Hair Mask on Your Hair?

You should leave a hair mask on your hair for at least three to five minutes, but if you’re working with rough or dehydrated hair and have the time, you can let it sink into damp hair for 15 to 20 minutes. If you’re working with already dry hair, you can leave it on overnight. (Dry hair is less porous than wet hair, so there’s less risk of it maxing out on moisture—which is possible if you leave it on too long.)

Can You Leave a Hair Mask on Too Long?

Short answer, it depends on the hair mask you're using. If you apply your hair mask to damp hair—which is when the hair shaft is more porous, meaning it will absorb more of whatever you apply to it—you can have something called hygral fatigue. That means the hair has stretched and contracted with the addition of moisture, to the point that it becomes weak and prone to breakage. (Think of it like a hair tie that’s been stretched out repeatedly.) Leaving a hair mask on too long or even overnight, particularly on damp hair, can deliver too much moisture, which is what contributes to this. But the fix is easy: Just rinse your hair mask out after five minutes or as directed.

Another Bonus:

Many hair masks tend to smell good. So if you’re feeling stressed or frazzled, use a hair mask at home as a form of self-care. Slather on a hydrating hair mask, take a few deep breaths and enjoy the experience.

The best hair mask for you depends on your specific hair type and concern.